Identification guide
Hooded False Morel Identification Guide
How to recognise Gyromitra infula by its saddle-shaped, lobed brown cap and rotting-wood habitat, and how to separate it from the brain-like false morels, the true morels and the saddle fungi on structure alone.
First Impressions
You are most likely to meet Hooded False Morel in late summer or autumn, walking a conifer plantation track, an old logging landing, a wood-chip pile or a burn site a few years after a fire. The fungus sits on rotten wood or on the litter directly above buried wood, and from a few paces away it reads as a dark brown, irregular lump on a pale stalk, something between a saddle, a bishop's mitre and a badly folded handkerchief.
Get down to its level and the structure resolves. There is a distinctly lobed cap, usually with two or three broad lobes that fold upward and inward and are pressed against or fused to the stalk along part of their length. That mitre-like architecture is where both the common and the scientific name come from, and it is the first thing to confirm.
Reading the Cap
The cap is 3 to 12 cm across and about as tall as it is wide. Its outline is the key: two, three or occasionally four lobes, each with a raised edge, giving a saddle-shaped or hood-shaped profile. The surface between the lobes is smooth to slightly undulating or shallowly wrinkled, but it is never deeply pitted and never arranged into a honeycomb of ridges and hollows.
That distinction is worth labouring. A true morel has a network of vertical ridges enclosing sunken pits. A brain-like false morel has convoluted, cerebriform folds like walnut kernels. Hooded False Morel has neither; its surface is comparatively even, with the drama coming from the large-scale folding of the whole cap rather than fine surface sculpture.
Colour ranges from tan and cinnamon through chestnut and reddish-brown to a dark, almost blackish umber in older or sun-exposed material. Young fruit bodies are often paler and more orange-brown. The underside of the cap, the sterile face, is paler, dull buff to whitish, and finely downy or granular under a hand lens. The fertile surface is the outer, upper face; unlike a gilled fungus, there is no separate hymenium hanging beneath.
Feel the cap between your fingers. It is thin, brittle and slightly waxy or rubbery when fresh, and it snaps rather than tears.
Stipe and Base
The stipe is 3 to 10 cm tall and 1 to 3 cm thick, more or less cylindrical or slightly enlarged downwards. It is whitish, pale buff or faintly flushed with pinkish or violaceous tones in some collections, and its surface is smooth to very slightly uneven, sometimes with shallow longitudinal furrows or a few blunt ribs, but never deeply fluted into the sharp ridges and pockets of a Helvella.
Slice the stipe lengthwise from top to bottom. This is the single most informative cut you can make. In this species the interior is hollow or, more often, partly stuffed with irregular pale wads of tissue and divided by a few internal folds into one or two chambers. It is neither the single clean hollow tube of a true morel nor the many-chambered labyrinth of some other false morels. Note also that the cap cavity connects continuously with the stipe cavity where the lobes are not attached.
At the base look for white mycelial strands binding wood fragments, needles or chips. Confirming that the fungus is arising from wood rather than from mineral soil is a substantial part of the identification.
Flesh and Colour Change
The flesh throughout is thin, often only 1 to 2 mm in the cap, brittle and whitish to pale buff. Cut surfaces do not blue, redden or blacken; at most they dull slightly and darken in the way that any pale ascomycete tissue does over an hour or two. There is no latex and no milk. The odour is faint and unremarkable, sometimes described as slightly earthy or mushroomy, and it is not a useful separator here.
Getting a Spore Deposit
Ascomycetes discharge their spores actively from asci rather than dropping them passively, so a spore print works a little differently from a gilled mushroom. Set the cap fertile-side up on dark paper, or invert it over a slide, and cover it. Within a few hours a whitish to pale cream or faintly yellowish deposit appears, often visible as a fine haze on the paper around the specimen rather than as a crisp silhouette. Some collections puff a visible cloud of spores if you breathe on them or jar them after a change in humidity.
Under the microscope the spores of this species are smooth, ellipsoid and comparatively large, roughly 17 to 23 by 7 to 10 micrometres, usually with two conspicuous oil droplets and, importantly, with rounded ends lacking any apiculate points. Spore shape and end-shape are the standard laboratory separators within this group.
Substrate and Season
Hooded False Morel is a wood-rotting fungus, not a mycorrhizal one. It fruits on well-decayed conifer logs and stumps, sawdust and chip piles, buried wood, and disturbed or burned ground, and less often on hardwood debris. Damp, shaded, mossy wood is the classic situation.
Its season is unusual within the group and is one of the strongest supporting characters: it fruits from late summer into autumn, and sometimes right up to the first frosts, whereas most of its relatives appear in spring. A saddle-lobed brown false morel found on rotten conifer wood in October is far more likely to be this species than any of the spring fruiters.
Separating the Look-Alikes
Gyromitra esculenta has a cap that is convoluted and brain-like, with irregular cerebriform folds rather than a few clean lobes, and it fruits in spring on sandy conifer soil. Its stipe is usually shorter, stouter and more chambered.
Gyromitra ambigua is extremely close and is separated chiefly by microscopy: its spores are longer and bear small pointed apiculi at each end, and its fruit bodies often show more violaceous or purplish tones in cap and stipe.
True morels (Morchella species) have a cap with a distinct honeycomb of ridges and pits, the cap margin is fully fused to the stipe at its base, and the whole fruit body is a single continuous hollow chamber from cap apex to stipe base. Slice one lengthwise and the difference is unmistakable.
Elfin Saddle (Helvella lacunosa) shares the lobed saddle cap but is grey to black, and its stipe is deeply and sharply fluted with pockets and ribs running its whole length. Helvella crispa has the same fluted stipe but is white to cream with a wavy, crisped cap margin.
Gyromitra korfii and relatives are bulkier, with broadly folded, wrinkled, cushion-like caps and thick, massively ribbed stipes.
Field Checklist
Two to four broad lobes forming a saddle or mitre; smooth to lightly wrinkled cap surface, never pitted; tan to dark reddish-brown; pale, smooth to faintly furrowed stipe that is hollow or loosely stuffed; thin brittle whitish flesh with no colour change; whitish spore deposit; rotten conifer wood, chips or burned ground; late summer to autumn.
Common questions
How do I tell a Hooded False Morel from a true morel?
What does it grow on?
When does it fruit?
Which look-alike is hardest to rule out?
Full reference entry for Hooded False Morel
Cap and fruiting body, spore print colour, substrate, season, ecological role and the species most often confused with it.
Open the Hooded False Morel entry →